| Shell of a Town
What local colleges have a better student life than College Park? Strayer, AU, Georgetown, GW, Southeastern, GMU, Howard, NOVA, Catholic, Montgomery College, Marymount, Gallaudet, UDC
By David Morton
All you really need to know about the nightlife in College Park, Md., boils down to one word: faggot.
Apparently lots of faggots wander around the few bars in the city’s
small commercial district, getting on people’s nerves. Those in the
know say you should definitely avoid the Cornerstone Grill and Loft at
the corner of Route 1 and Knox Road, one of the three main drinking
establishments catering to the University of Maryland’s more than
34,000 students.
“I don’t want to deal with the faggots,” says Mark, a 19-year-old
freshman, on a recent Saturday night. He’s on his way to R.J. Bentley’s
Filling Station, the Cornerstone’s neighbor and chief rival. The
Cornerstone just has too many guidos, he says. “They spike their hair
in this onion bloom.”
Five junior women, Bentley’s regulars, offer detailed support for
the contention: The Cornerstone is very Greek, plays “black-girl
music,” and is filled with kids from New York and New Jersey who wear
heels and gel up their hair. At Bentley’s, though, the dress is more
casual. It plays “white-girl music” (the girls themselves are white),
and it hosts a big contingent from Baltimore prep schools. If that’s
not reason enough, three of the girls say they got their faces licked
by random guys at the Cornerstone. “I was fingered!” says another of
the girls, seemingly astonished by the recollection. “Yeah, I wasn’t
happy about it,” she adds.
There was a faggot sighting just the night before. Shortly after the
bars’ closing time, a student was walking along nearby Princeton Avenue
when a car drove by. According to Prince George’s County police, the
driver called the student a faggot. The student kicked the car. The
driver stopped the car, grabbed a crowbar, and attacked the student.
They both ended up at the hospital. The faggot apparently put up a good
fight.
Tonight, also around closing time, a fight breaks out inside the
Cornerstone. Bouncers quickly muscle the combatants out, but they carry
on fighting outside. One guy gets his face beat in near the curb. Two
others are grappling on the median of Route 1. Within minutes, two
quick bursts of gunfire punctuate the proceedings. A bouncer later
tells the police that a man fired several shots in the air and then
fled.
The officers briefly wave their flashlights on the pavement, trying
to find any of the spent shell casings among the students milling
around. J., a Cornerstone bouncer sporting a Jägermeister lanyard,
finds one. It is small and gold-colored and resting in a sidewalk crack
at the corner.
“That’s a .22!” J. exclaims to his bouncer buddies who’ve congregated around his discovery. “What kind of bullshit is that?”
“That’s a 9 mm,” counters another bouncer.
“I’m in the military,” argues a Cornerstone patron. “That’s too small to be a 9 mm.”
A bouncer from another bar ends the debate: “Let’s put money on it,”
he says. J. puts a pint glass next to the casing as a makeshift
evidence marker.
A Cornerstone bouncer sees a kid lingering in the street and orders him away. “Faggot!” the kid replies.
“Faggot” bookends Saturday. It is the opening salvo and the closing
remark of another bungled attempt at the collegiate experience.
Downtown College Park, or what counts for
downtown, becomes at night a vile broth of popped-collar thugs and P.G.
violence, a street play of lowest common denominators. Oh, you can grab
a smoothie, too. Those with a taste for brain food or quirkier fare
ought to look elsewhere. College Park is just not that kind of town.
University of Maryland President C.D. Mote Jr., in his recent State
of the Campus address, touted the school’s solidifying status as a top
20 public university, a huge leap from its reputation a generation ago
as a meathead party school. These days at the state’s flagship campus,
the average GPA for incoming freshmen is a 3.9. Most cracked 1200 on
the SAT. Yet those figures, while impressive, aren’t good enough. A
20-year project is underway to propel Maryland into the small circle of
elite public schools that includes Michigan, Cal, Wisconsin, and
Virginia. Maryland, said Mote, is about halfway there.
But whatever the president’s success might be on the academic front,
Maryland will never rank among the heavyweights. Stocking the student
body with mathletes has done little to address College
Park’s greatest shortcoming: It has the locational charm of a highway
rest stop. The campus itself possesses lovely qualities, such as
tasteful neo-Georgian architecture and the wide grassy expanse of
McKeldin Mall. The town has neighborhoods that are as green and
chock-full of pre-war cottages as Takoma Park. But it doesn’t suffice.
Instead of an Ann Arbor, a Berkeley, a Madison, or a
Charlottesville—perennial chart-toppers on lists of America’s most
livable cities—you somehow get, in College
Park, an ugly shopping strip, a scarcity of choice, an air of lurking
danger, and the promise of thoughtless mayhem. According to FBI figures
reported in the Diamondback, the principal college newspaper, Maryland has the highest rate of violent crime among universities of comparable size.
Perhaps nothing in recent memory puts the gap between better grades
and better living in starker relief than the recent student tradition
of rioting. The first major occurrence was in 2001, when the Duke
basketball team ousted Maryland at the Final Four. Fans took over
downtown, broke through glass storefronts, ripped up the adjacent
residential neighborhood, and hauled out furniture and fence posts to
feed the flames. The final damage toll was more than $500,000. Similar
violence followed Maryland’s national basketball championship in 2002.
Three state troopers were reportedly injured, and an off-duty Metrobus
driver, in uniform, lost vision in one eye. The rioting, says Maj.
Cathy Atwell, spokesperson for the university’s Department of Public
Safety, follows major matchups, win or lose, basketball or football,
and certainly whenever Duke is involved. In April, when the Maryland
women’s basketball team beat Duke for the national title, hundreds of
sudden fans took to the streets again and tried to tip over a shuttle
bus. Amid the chaos, a sophomore had her legs crushed on Route 1 by an
oncoming car.
So now, after big games, university police come out with pepper
spray, riot helmets, and “turtle suit” armor, often assisted by county,
state, and park police. Violence like this hasn’t cropped up on campus
or near it since the antiwar demonstrations of the ’70s. Now it happens
because Duke sucks. Or maybe because otherwise the campus will lack
distinction.
The phenomenon puzzles residents and officials, and the fact that it
also occurs elsewhere offers little solace. “I’ve read books on it;
I’ve talked to psychologists,” says Maj. Atwell. “I don’t know why they
do it.” Atwell was shocked when she heard undergraduates saying it was
the riots that inspired them to come to Maryland. An alum herself and a
28-year veteran of the university’s force, the major now sometimes
roots for Maryland teams to lose.
Without a single solution to the spurts of mindless violence, Atwell
hopes the rioting will pass from fashion—already the unruliness has
faded significantly in intensity. The president has made ending the
embarrassing riot culture one of his highest priorities. If things get
out of hand, and you’re caught in the crowd by one of the campus
security cameras, you can be expelled.
A more complete strategy would complement the threat of punishment
with positive incentives. Students are obviously bored. Try this: Make College Park worth not destroying.
For about a quarter century, Jim Dodson has survived on paper-thin
margins. Since 1983, he has sold comics in the main commercial district
along Route 1, near the corner with Knox Road. Before then, as a
graduate student in entomology, he would rent space once a week at the
student union. With every comic order, he assumes significant risk.
Clogging the shelves right now are more than 25 issues of perhaps his
worst recent investment, Supergirl, Lost Daughter of Krypton No. 9. The
title’s popularity has fallen off “precipitously” from the months
before, says Dodson, shaking his head.
Dodson often lets personal fancy trump business acumen. For the past
seven years, he has dedicated a whole floor-to-ceiling shelving unit
and about $1,500 to books espousing the libertarian philosophy he
shares. In 2004, he changed the name of the store from the Closet of
Comics to Liberty Books & Comics, creating confusion among
passers-by who think used books are the more important component of the
store. Sales of the political volumes are rare. “It’s my heart saying,
‘I support this publisher!’” he says. “But you don’t sell one damn one
of them.” He bought 100 copies of a 19th-century political tract he
likes to just give away, and when I decline an offered copy, his
shoulders slump in disappointment.
Liberty Books represents exactly the kind of profit-ambivalent operation that College
Park desperately needs more of. By appealing to obscure tastes, by
taking risks with your stock, you help build an interesting downtown.
If only there was more room. The buildings aren’t very big, there’s not
much retail space, and what space becomes available commands sky-high
rent. For the most part, only national chains can buy in.
So in recent years, downtown College Park
has lost a card-and-gift store, the Planet X coffeehouse, a yarn store,
and Terrapin Taco House, which had been in business for 34 years. The
Maryland Book Exchange was once the finest bookstore in the Washington
area; according to Kyle McAbee, 53, a former employee of a long-gone
rival store, the Exchange “attempted to get every book in print.” Now
half of the store’s floor space is dedicated to Terps gear.
Independently owned Vertigo Books, which moved from Dupont Circle,
partially makes up for the losses, but the shopping area has also
gained Starbucks, Smoothie King, Potbelly, Noodles & Company, Cold
Stone Creamery, and about a dozen other generic, market-tested sure
things—almost all of it food. Ask an undergraduate what he values most
about College Park, and as likely as not he
will say Chipotle, and he will boast the true fact that the local
franchise has rung up some of the company’s highest sales. “It has the
best meat,” says Evan Doyle, a 21-year-old senior. “It’s spicy—but not
so spicy that people who don’t like spicy won’t like it.”
The place with the most traffic, though, has to be Wawa, although
its customers show it little outward affection. On weekend nights after
the bars close, students stream in, crowding the store with their
bursting nihilism, and attack the shelves. Nick, a 19-year-old
sophomore, says that his friends play a game based on who can pop the
most bags of chips. “Fourteen is the record,” he says; the champion got
caught on No. 15.
That’s not college. That’s College Park.
On a recent Monday evening, the motor of an air conditioning unit
overheats on the fifth floor of an off-campus student high-rise. Local
firefighters respond with overwhelming force. A fleet of four
firetrucks and four or five SUVs flying the colors of various local
fire companies tears down Route 1 and climbs Knox Road into the
apartment tower’s parking lot. Soon after, the men are peeling off
their gear and uncoupling a hose from the hydrant. Another night,
another siren serenade. “We call it the sound of home,” says Christine
Dollymore, 47, a longtime College Park resident. “If we don’t hear the fire engines, something’s wrong.”
Fire resonates with particularly tragic memories in College
Park. Earlier this year, 22-year-old senior David Ellis died in a fire
at one of the notorious “Knox Box” apartments, clusters of cheap rental
blocks abutting the south end of campus. In May, 20-year-old junior
Daniel Murray was charged with setting the fire at a rental home on
Princeton Avenue last year that killed 22-year-old senior Michael
Scrocca. Murray was allegedly drunk and angry at being taunted by
people at a party hosted at the house, so he returned early that
morning while everyone in the house was asleep and threw a lit broom on
the porch couch. In 1912, a catastrophic fire burned nearly the whole
campus to the ground.
College Park isn’t actually always
aflame. The main reason for the constant racket is because Route 1 is
the central conduit of area traffic to and from the Beltway at the
northern border of town. Several local fire companies use it to reach
highway car wrecks. That is but one of the many ways the state road
channels bad vibes through town.
The road, four lanes parted by a suicide turning lane, is the spine
of the city—and also its angry heart. Formerly a stagecoach trail
between Baltimore and D.C., it would later define what College
Park was to become: divided. The campus grew longitudinally, stretching
south to north along the west side of the road. Most of the city
developed longitudinally along the east side. There would be no center
where the two would meet, not unless you count the wide road itself.
That the university would be located here at all, near the eventual
confluence of I-95 and the Beltway, and within 20 miles or so of
Maryland’s population centers, ensured that the College
Park campus would have a heavy commuter contingent. More students have
been living on or near campus in recent years, but about 10,000
undergrad and graduate students purchase parking permits, and many of
them live outside College Park. Route 1 is
their driveway. At rush hours it is a parking lot. Returning home,
traveling the two-and-a-half miles from the main gate to the Beltway
can take, in some extreme circumstances, an hour and a half.
You know you’ve had a deprived college
experience when half of it takes place in a car. For those who drive,
heading to campus is the equivalent of going to work. Home—where you
buy groceries, eat, and sleep; where you raise a family, vote, and host
neighborhood barbecues; where you watch fireworks, bowl, and pay
taxes—is elsewhere.
It was the university’s bad luck to be founded, exactly 150 years
ago, about 10 miles from downtown Washington. At the time, 10 miles was
a long way, and the capital was too small to matter. But a century
later, the college town found itself a
commuter suburb. Area amenities concentrated elsewhere, and communities
like Takoma Park, with its small-scale charms unbothered by a major
thoroughfare, became more desirable places to live.
Eric Olson, a 36-year-old member of College
Park’s city council, recently gave me an evening tour of the town. We
drive in Olson’s green Chevy pickup through his beautiful neighborhood
of old cottages at the south end of town, and very quickly we’re out
onto Route 1 and into the downtown district. Olson, who handles smart
growth and transportation issues at the Sierra Club, says the city is
finally redeveloping the area to make it more townlike. Within a few
years, the anonymous City Hall building behind the shopping strip will
be demolished and replaced with a mixed-use development—condos on top,
retail at the ground floor. There will also be a new parking garage,
something desperately demanded by store owners who cater to a
commuter-heavy campus. As it is now, “we get all the negatives of the
traffic and none of the benefits,” Olson says.
We drive farther north up Route 1, which is called Baltimore Avenue
on the signs, past the university’s main entrance and the horseshoe of
Fraternity Row, and now it’s standard exurban no man’s land. Empty
lots, Jiffy Lube, Taco Bell, boarded-up restaurants, chain motels.
There are several gems out here, too, such as the College Perk coffeehouse and Alario’s Italian Pizzeria and Restaurant. Atomic Music moved to Beltsville a few weeks ago.
We pull off the main artery onto what is by comparison a small
capillary road, into another charming neighborhood like Olson’s, all
residential but for a sprinkle of interesting stores such as the Smile
Herb Shop and a vegetarian cafe. Farther on, nearly at the Beltway, we
reach a shopping plaza with a My Organic Market and an REI. These are
all types of stores you’d expect to see in a college town’s downtown. But we are now three miles away.
Back onto Route 1, we pass what Olson calls “sort of the middle” of College
Park, but in a city with no town square, that doesn’t mean much. Nearby
is the city’s veterans memorial. It shares the corner with a U-Haul
franchise. The great hope for Route 1 is that it will one day become a
boulevard, with a grassy median and trees and graded turning slots and
bike lanes and more sidewalks. Olson very consciously wants College Park to be more like a classic college
town, and he believes that a made-over Route 1 is the answer. Such a
plan has been approved by state officials, but it has yet to receive
funding. The town has a lot of the other requisite qualities: ethnic
and income diversity, Metro access along its eastern boundary, a paved
bike path through some charming, historic neighborhoods. “We’ve also
worked to sell the city,” he says. “But you know, the challenge is
Route 1.”
Getting from enclave to enclave, to College
Perk or to the supermarket, from south to north and from east to west,
requires driving on or across it, and you might even have to make a
left turn. One day it might be possible to fix up Route 1. But you will
never be able to escape it.
Over the years, alcohol has become a scarce commodity on campus.
Kegs are banned on university property. Parties in dorms are strictly
controlled, low-key affairs. Frat houses host only a few parties a
year, and when they do, they must register each one and supply a
bouncer to check IDs at the door. University police patrol the football
tailgates, where if they catch you playing beer pong, you might lose
both the beer and the balls. The 2002 death by excessive intoxication
of a fraternity pledge amped up the vigilance.
An unintended result is that the drinking has moved farther afield, into College
Park neighborhoods. The frats, for instance, operate satellite houses.
Some parties migrate outside the jurisdiction of the university police,
requiring walks down darker side streets beyond the reach of the campus
shuttle-bus system, into territory where drunk students make for mugger
prey.
The campus police acknowledge that the restrictive beverage policies
often just shift the drinking to more perilous spots. “I would argue
that it does cut down on some [underage drinking], because you have
people unwilling to take the risk,” says Maj. Atwell.
But sticking close to campus doesn’t necessarily help. In 2002, a
20-year-old student was fatally stabbed by a nonstudent outside a party
a few blocks from university police headquarters.
Every college town suffers town–gown friction. In College
Park, gown fears town, and the fear is well-justified. According to FBI
stats, incidents of the worst violent crimes—rapes, robberies, and
aggravated assaults—increased some 50 percent in 2005 from the year
before, to 38. The number of robberies, 18, was the most in at least a
decade.
According to Maj. Atwell, part of the problem is that area criminals
have easy access to campus from University Boulevard and Route 1. In
2000, after University Courtyard, an off-campus student-housing
complex, opened at the extreme western edge of town, it instantly
became a vulnerable target. “It was clear people were coming off
University Boulevard, victimizing someone, and pulling out quickly,”
she says. The ready escape routes also facilitated car thefts. When the
GTA wave hit P.G. County several years ago, the problem spiked in College
Park. In 2001, there were 115 cars stolen from students, quadruple the
figure from the year before. The average annual toll has been about 70
since then.
University police distribute mass e-mails to students as serious
criminal incidents happen. To students, these dispatches of robberies
and assaults read as a drumbeat of increasing danger. “Seems like last
semester it was one every other day,” says Alex Cameron, a 19-year-old
sophomore. Crime alerts actually hit in-boxes on average once per week,
but the violence struck Cameron close to home. Two of his fraternity
brothers were mugged independently of each other last semester; in one
of the incidents, the victim was also beaten, right in the middle of
Fraternity Row. “It’s pretty pathetic that guys have to worry about
pairing up and walking home,” says another brother, Jeff Wimbish, a
22-year-old senior.
A month into the new semester, there is little sign of a letup. At
2:30 a.m. on Sept. 22, five days after shots are fired outside the
Cornerstone, a man threatens a student with a replica semi-automatic
pistol outside the Wawa. About 24 hours later, early on Saturday
morning, shots are fired into South Street Steaks across the street.
(Three suspects, all nonstudents, are quickly arrested.) On Sunday
night, two men hold up a student at gunpoint just outside Cameron and
Wimbish’s fraternity house. On Tuesday afternoon, an armed man robs a
downtown bank.
Like any college, the University of
Maryland yearns to shut itself off from the outside world—to fend off
clashes with thugs as with other undesirables. The city doesn’t show up
on tourist itineraries, and people in the area who didn’t attend the
school tend to not even know what College
Park looks like. But the city figures prominently on the maps of
perverts, so much so that the Cornerstone has an anti-creep strategy:
On a sign by the door, it says that if you don’t have a college or military ID, you pay a $50 cover.
“There’s so many fucking bars in Baltimore, and you want to pick up drunk college
girls?” says Cara Thompson, a 22-year-old junior, outside the
Cornerstone following the initial gunfire incident. “People come here
just to pick on our people, and that sucks.”
Earlier that same night, a middle-aged man in a tie and thick
glasses who called himself Don strode into Bentley’s. Bald but for
wings of mussed hair leaping from his temples, and with his shirttail
sprouting from his open fly, he looked as if he might have already
weathered a big night instead of having just begun one. But the frumpy
professor act worked. Without hardly trying, by just keeping a grin
locked in place, maintaining a look of wide-eyed surprise, and bouncing
from foot to foot, he got some of what he was looking for from the
ladies. During “Pour Some Sugar on Me,” he achieved a girl sandwich on
the dance floor. There was, however, no touching.
He then pulled a disposable camera from his shirt pocket and snapped
pictures of his dance partners. They took pictures with their own
camera with him, and then he went downstairs. Don enjoyed similar
success down there, with raised glasses in his honor and more photos. A
long-haired guy in a lumberjack flannel leaned into Don’s ear and
asked, “Who are you?”
“I’m Don!” he replied.
The longer he stayed in one place, the more strongly his aura of
creepiness radiated, and the more space women would give him. He went
back upstairs to a crowded corner where the Don effect would still be
fresh. When that scene tired after 10 minutes, he left.
“The girls were kind of wild,” said Don in a thick Southern accent
when he walked out. “They’re all over you.” Don wasn’t a professor.
It’s unclear what he was. “I was just on the interstate, thought I’d
have a beer,” he said. He was heading for Richmond that night, having
started from somewhere in Pennsylvania. He visibly saddened at the
thought that he was now being followed, ended the conversation with an
“OK,” and then crossed Route 1.
Don entered Santa Fe Café, circled around for a few minutes, saw
there was no dancing, and walked out again. I asked about the pictures
he was taking. “I had some shots left,” he replied. “Thought I’d use
them up.” There was a pause, then, “I think it’s time to go,” and he
disappeared into the parking lot of the shopping plaza. Just passing
through, like everybody else.CP
Additional reporting by Jason Cherkis |